MOROCCO AND BACK
Name: Guy Greenway
Age: 32
Profession: Director
Nationality: British
Previous Bike Travel Experience: France
This Trip: From London to southern Morocco and back.
Departure Date: 30.08.99
Number in Group: 1
Trip Duration: 2 Months
Mileage Covered: 5000 (approx because speedometer broke)
London, Portsmouth, Tours, Bordeaux, Carcasonne, Barcelona, Elche, Algeciras, Tangiers, Asilah, Rabat, Casablanca, El Jadida, Safi, Essouira, Marrakesh, Ouazazarte, Zagora, Mhamid, Nekob, Iknionn, Todra, Assoul, Asfia, Goulmima, Touroug, Erfoud, Merzouga, Rissani, Alnif, Bou Gafer Marrakesh and back to London!!
In the Southern Morocco on the mountain piste routes North of the the DRAA VALLEY, heading up to the TODRA GORGE through the Gorge and round the Northern piste circuit to GOULMIMA. That was fantastic it reminded you why you love biking. Miles and miles of empty piste passing through scattered and untouched villages with a big rooster tail of dust following you. If I went back Id fly an enduro bike down and focus on these areas.
The hiking on the mountain paths from OUKAMEIDEN to IMLIL and then the ascent of DJEBEL TOUBKAL. Fantastic hiking through some of the most fantastic scenery. TOUBKAL was the first mountain I have ever climbed and the ascent was both hard work and fantastic in the snow. The descent (Id forgotten I suffer from Vertigo!!) was not so great made it none the less.
They say that the North and South of Morocco are like different countries. Well theyre right and if youre on a bike the south is where you want to be. Riding through the desert from MERZOUGA to RISSANI with just a compass was very memorable.
The TIZI-N-TICHKA pass from MARRAKESH to OUAZAZARTE. More hairpin bends than you can throw a stick at. Wonderful views from the saddle. Get cold at the top though watch out!!
Riding South from TANGIERS to CASABLANCA. Id taken my rainproof lining out of my jacket and driven through a storm. Got soaked and then dried off on the bike. Ended up with a chill to the Kidneys in a shitty hotel in Casablanca. Not good at all.
Favourite Places:
Atlas Mountains. ESSOUIRA was lovely too. Had a really good week there with a mate who flew out from the UK. The Glaoui Kasbah at TELOUET was stunning. I reckon that was a better site to see than AIT BENHADDOU. Read up on the history of Telouet. And a tiny village called IKNIOUNN on the piste south of TINEHIR. Got stuck here for the night (dont ride the pistes at night) where I stayed in a flea ridden bedroom with old boxes for a mattress and had two boiled eggs and a tin of sardines for supper. Priceless!
Biggest Headache:
Lonelyness: Im a regular Guy but spending a lot of time riding on your own and generally doing your own thing can start making you a little introverted when you get into company. Dont underestimate it it creeps up on you. Furthermore a lot of the good experiences on a bike are when youre doing things like the piste riding its great to do these things with a friend you can share the experience. In addition to this a friend in tow stops you looking like such a loner when you're back in civilisation -hence it's actually easier to meet people. After all the people you meet and the stories you share are vital.
Biggest mistake: Not going with a friend
Most Pleasant Surprise: Cuvee Le President (Moroccan red wine excellent)
Illness: Chilled Kidneys
Cost of Trip: About £2000.00
Other trips planned: Trans Sahara
One travel tip: Just do it. Dont keep boring all your friends by talking about it. Hotmail was a great move.
Model of Bike: BMW R80GS
Age: 1992
Modifications: Billet 6 pot front brake caliper, side stand, Touratech sump guard, Ascerbis hand protectors. All of them great. No need for a big tank on this trip.
Tyres: Avon Gripsters was going to get Michelin Deserts on but theyre not so good on tarmac. I got through soft sand with two up on the gripsters a bit hairy but managed it!!
Punctures: None
Baggage: Soft throwover panniers, tank bag, cargo net. Remember its great if you can carry all your baggage in one go if you cant youll worry about the stuff youve left on the bike when youre dropping off the first load.
Bikes strong point: Good for all terrain. Some may say its too heavy for rough piste that may be true, but what you do have is great torque which enables you to go slow on corners then point and shoot the bike. I would never have believed how good the bike was going to be on the rough stuff. By the end of it I was getting the bike over jumps!!
Bikes weakpoint: Wobbles at speed on crowded motorways but I guess any enduro will.
Problems: Only the above
Accidents: One dropped going over a 3 ft boulder on a narrow piste.
Same bike again: Not sure depends where going.